Friday, April 28, 2017

1840s corset

I made a corset to be the foundation of an 1840s costume for Dickens Fair.

I scaled a pattern from Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines to my measurements (I'm working on a method of adapting historical patterns that only come in one size), and made a mockup.

Well, sort of.  With this particular corset, there's not much additional work between "mockup" and "functional corset," so my first version of this pattern was the completed corset.  Which, predictably, didn't fit.

























I have got to find a place to put a full-length mirror that isn't opposite a bright window.

However, for a corset that doesn't fit, it's kind of not bad.  I actually *really* like the shape, or the shape I think it'll have when I make it the right size.  Among other things, I think it'll make a good foundation for a Wonder Woman cosplay.

But as for WHY it doesn't fit: well, it's too big around, which was clearly just an error on my part.  It only constricts very slightly before the edges meet in the back.  I need to remove two inches from the waist circumference. 

The bust is both too big and too high, and I think these are related.  See, the problem with scaling up period patterns is that the dimensions aren't marked.  You can't tell from the pattern pieces exactly where the waist line is, where the bust is.  I think I measured the pattern's bust, and distance from waist to bust, a little below the actual fullest point (see how it dips under the armpit? If I measured there, I was below the fullest point), but measured my own bust at the *actual* fullest point, my modified pattern would have the bust too high and too full.  Which is what we have.

The hipline is pretty good: still too big, but it's a nice line.

And the effort wasn't wasted.  I already found a friend to take it off my hands.  :)

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