Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Hood part 3, additional patterning

Now that I have a pattern that works pretty well, I need to do a mockup in a fabric that will behave more like my handwoven fabric will: a light, airy wool crepe, rather than a heavy fulled coating wool.

Also, since I'm using handwoven fabric, I want to be a little more grounded in the research, to make a more historically accurate piece.

Looking through the images linked to here, I noticed a few trends: red was the most common color, but other colors were present (black, brown, blue and yellow).  More stylish hoods had very short skirting, generally not meeting the neckline of the gown.  Many hoods were shown with a white lining, many were shown with no color distinction between the inside and the outside (which may mean it was unlined, and may be the work of a lazy artist).  One in particular seemed to be a pale patterned fabric, lined in green.


My conclusion was that it's just as well my fabric is reddish, and as it's so light that lining seems to be a good idea, it might as well be lined in white. (but if I really wanted to, a silk lining in another color might be acceptable.)

To adjust the pattern for a more accurate cut, I traced my previous pattern onto my fabric, looked at the diagrams of the extant hoods in Textiles and Clothing, and adjusted.  This was the result:
(Sorry, I thought I'd taken an in-process drafting photo, but clearly not.)

When lined, this is the result:













I feel like the turnback is too long, and the back of the neck is kind of baggy.
Taking an inch off the top with a pin makes both issues better.


Only...does anyone else think it suddenly resembles a Cap of Maintenance, being all red with a white lining?  Any pelicans want an open hood?  The liripipe will be extended, you do your own buttons/holes.

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