Hood part 2: patterning

I have one hood, which was made in a bit of a hurry, and was a re-working of another hood that was just wasn't working, which is why the construction is a little weird:

I mean, really, that gusset at the back of the neck!

 It fits okay open:

 the turn-back is about chin length, which is right, but there isn't really room for my hair in a bun, which pushes the whole hood back a bit (not necessarily a bad thing) and the skirting is too long.  Most of the illustrated examples, the skirting doesn't always reach the neckline of the dress, and this one is wider than my shoulders.

If I were to try to wear it closed, however (assuming I get around to adding buttons and holes), the opening would be too tight.

I thought I'd try the pattern drafted by the lovely Katafalk, as my own hood pattern was questionable.

The first draft turned out rather large.

  I compared it with the other hood, and more or less averaged the two:

 Better, but still not quite right.

 Mostly, there's a TON of room at the back of my head, which I pinned in a bit.

Re-draw the back seamline again:

I tried it on inside out, so that the excess on the inside of that curve didn't screw with the drape too much, just to make sure I hadn't taken out too much. It fit, so I trimmed the seam allowance down to an even 1/2" and turned it right-side out again.

The skirting is still longer than it should be; with this particular mockup, I'm going to leave it that way,  because I'm not fond of that chilly gap between hood and gown, and as this fabric is a nice cashmere/wool blend, this hood will be for warmth.  Also, the transition from hood to liripipe is too gradual, the extant examples (from Textiles and Clothing, and other sources) show a much more abrupt, panhandle shape, more like the gold hood.  I'm leaving the gradual transition, though, too; it fits my hair when it's in a bun on the back of my head, and the purpose of this garment (now that pattern tweaking is done) is to keep me warm in a plausibly medieval way, not strict adherence to authenticity.

Very helpful webpages:
http://larsdatter.com/hoods.htm
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/hoods.html