Plausibly Period Sewing Kits

I made a set of plausibly period sewing kits as gifts for a team of stitchers who are working on a project for me, and for them to give another team working on a similar project.  I meant to print up little documentation cards to go in them, but was derailed by a family emergency.  Please forgive the lack of references and citations, I hope to gradually improve this post as time allows. Also, as I was making these for people with a wide variety of places and times of interest, I made no effort to be excruciatingly correct for any one time and place, but rather to find a collection of tools that were at least plausible for a wide range.

The elements of the kits are a combination of made, purchased, and modified.

Small bentwood boxes seem to be common choices for sewing kits, or at least later-period art suggests so.  These little bentwood boxes aren't anything like what would be used in period, relying on very thin plywood bonded to some kind of fabric to be a flexible cover.  I didn't realize there was a synthetic center, so I reinforced the thin wood by gluing down some silk.  I had some plastic washers that did a fabulous job of keeping the knotted elastic from blowing right through the thin wood.  Gluing in the silk was time-consuming, and maybe not necessary. Adding the washers was necessary and easy. (the cord stretches between the two visible holes and hooks over the knob barely visible on the lid)

I've been using one of these for a week, keeping it in my purse and not being particularly careful with it.  It's holding up well so far.

Pins and needles:
 The pins are modern glass-headed pins; I've seen references to glass-headed pins, but didn't take the time to track them down for this project.

Hand-made needles very similar to those held by the Museum of London are available, but prohibitively expensive, and while I looked into making my own, I ran out of time and energy.

Needle case:
Cylindrical wood tubes were used as pin and needle cases on the Mary Rose, though those had stoppers, not caps, and had dividers so they could be used as thread-winders at the same time.
These were a batch of seconds, where the lid didn't fit tightly.  I wrapped them with waxed thread to snug up the fit.


Beeswax and pouch
The wax hexagons are from a friend who keeps bees.  To protect the wax from lint, and to protect the rest of the contents of the kit from wax, I wanted a little pouch to keep it in.  A reusable/disposable tea bag was about the right size, so I copied it (tweaking the dimensions) out of a silk organza. I wanted a thin fabric that wouldn't add a lot of bulk, and I wanted a stiff fabric that wouldn't cling to the wax while inserting and removing it. I happened to have a remnant of rose-colored silk organza with an intact selvedge edge, which cut down on my narrow hems in disobedient fabric.  (Silk organza is kind of a nightmare to work with)

clockwise from top left: inside out bag, right side out bag, wax, original tea bag.

I have no evidence that anything like this thimble would have been used in period, but I know from experience that the secret to using a thimble is having one that fits well, so I wanted something adjustable. Modern adjustable ring thimbles exist, but they all look really cheap.

Caution: when using a leather thimble, the eye end of the needle will eventually inevitably punch through and into your finger.  This will hurt a lot when it happens, because it only happens when you're using a lot of force.

The tails are doubtless too long.  Adjust to fit and trim as desired.




Snips and sheath
This type of springy shear was pretty common throughout period.  I didn't notice until I was almost done inserting them into their sheathes that the "spring" part is actually plastic.

I apologize, but as I was fooled for a long time *with them in my hands,* I think they'll pass.

The leather sheath is just to keep the tips covered, for safety.  The loop is meant for hanging.







Awls and Bodkins
Bone, modern.  The awls are a very common Victorian design (though there's nothing about them that couldn't or necessarily even wouldn't have been done in period)

Thread winders
These are based sort of roughly off of a Viking find, and were a massive exercise (for me) in poor decision making.

Wood is not my medium.  Therefore, I have not earned the right to take short cuts, even though I know there are shortcuts to be had.

They exist.

That's enough.

Other people's research and variations:
A Viking/Saxon Sewing Box
Putting Together A Medieval Sewing Kit

I've been making progress on my epic to-do list.

I've arranged to give some stuff away (hasn't happened yet, I need to pick up mailing supplies):

The Noro Spatwarmers, ends woven in, yarn used calculated so I could update the pattern page, and a new home found.
Silk fabric remnants to be turned into ribbon yarn will go to an art teacher.
Silk/rayon burnout sample and its unattached lining to be a scarf will go to a friend.
microfiber twill skirt needs closure, has a new home.
rust wool open hood, needs liripipe extension has new home.
3 pairs fighter pants are going to the group they were intended for, eight years ago.  (Only two pairs, it turns out)
Assortment of wool hose in various stages of completion will go to someone they will fit.
Silk appliques cut for a project that never happened have a new home.

I've also wrapped up some projects:

Silk shirt has been made into a cushion cover for a friend (It's a little overstuffed.  The pillow form is too large for the maximum square the shirt could take)
 

t-shirt shrug had a gusset added.  I'm still not tickled by the fit, it's very high across the shoulders, which I did on purpose, but am not sure about the effect.

One coif got strings replaced, another got assembly (but not pressing)

Forehead cloth got linen lining and strings.  Technically, there's a gap in the stitching (where it was turned right-side out) but I completely forgot about it until this moment, and it shouldn't affect the wearing much.

Unfortunately, I also found a few more projects I'd forgotten about:

Another wool hood, this one in need of buttons and some kind of edge finish (I was thinking tablet-woven trim, but now I'm not sure I'm going to be wearing it enough to warrant that much work.  Maybe I should let this one go, too.

Ugh, this burnout velvet dress.  This isn't *nice* burnout velvet, with rayon pile on a silk ground, this is *cheap* burnout velvet, with rayon pile and a nylon ground.  It SHIFTS.  It moves. The burn-out paste was printed off-grain, so I can either cut on grain, or I can match the pattern. I lined it with a silk charmeuse (because it was a good color match, and available) and it's more wiggly than the silk.  Horrible. At any rate, I don't remember what was so wrong with this one that I abandoned it and started over, because I also have a *completed* dress like this.  But something went wrong, very wrong. 

Tweed vest and blazer, times two.
This set looks good on my husband, but his proportions don't allow off-the-rack suits, or at least not the kind of suits you buy off the rack at Target, so I need to alter his to fit.  And then the fabric turned out to be a shockingly good match for a skirt I own, so I got a set for me, too.  I'm pretty much going to have to re-cut mine entirely.  It's okay, though; a friend of mine has started doing Tweed Rides, and they sound like fun, and this is a near-instant outfit I can wear.  ...once I get it altered.

Socks, half-knit, discovered in the back of the car.

Softest white wool, to be a coat.  (I forgot to allow for bulk *under* the coat, so I'm opening up all of the seams to the minimal seam allowance possible, maybe to be reinforced by embroidery over the seams?)  ...do I even want to keep this garment?

So.  Some work done, much left to do. 

Unfinished Business

Inspired by a friend's new year's declaration of unfinished projects (and accompanying pledge to work them down), I've been going through my things and identifying projects that in still in an "in progress" state.  Most of them were simply set aside at some point, for no particular reason.  Some of them haven't actually been started, but are "committed" materials or plans.  Some of them will take less than 15 minutes to finish up, some an unestimatable amount of time.  Some I will absolutely use once they're done, some I know I don't want to finish.

The purpose of this post is to provide some external accountability. Everything will be listed, with a time estimate.  Anything other than "epic" (because, really, there are some projects I don't intend to abandon, but know I won't finish this year) will either be finished, or passed on to someone else who will finish and use the item.

I may be using my "secret sock bag" technique of combating decision fatigue, at least for the small projects. That has yet to be determined.

Apologies, my phone takes really uneven pictures.  Some are great, some are terrible, and I'm not unpacking the box just to re-photograph right now.

Here we go.

15 minute projects (or: next time I touch this, I'm just getting it done.)

 Silk shirt, being made into a pillow cover.  Need to cut to size and sew.

 T-shirt shrug, experimental pattern.  Need to open up the sleeve seam and add a gusset, it's too tight around the upper arm.

 Linen coif: old ties came off in the wash.  New ties need attaching.

Ramie thrift store chemise/underdress: remove side zipper, replace buttons with something less plastic.

 Forehead cloth: sew linen lining, ties at corners. 

Silk/rayon burnout velvet scarf.  Needs lining sewn.  (Note: Someone else can do this.)

Noro Spatwarmers: Ends need weaving in, want to weigh for accurate yardage, and photograph while wearing for Ravelry pattern page.  Once all that's done, free to a good home.















2 hour projects (Or: This can easily get done in one sitting.)

 Handwoven swatch. Make a pouch or two? 

 Socks, ran out of yarn.  Have supplemental yarn, so I either need to finish the socks, or re-do them (I'm not totally happy with the pattern.)

 Linen undershirt, in need of mending.

 Microfiber twill skirt, actually a very nice teal color.  Finished other than a side closure (buttons were planned, could be a zipper) too small now, needs a new home.

 Hand felted pouch.  Needs fastening, decoration.

 Handwoven fabric.  Needs finishing (secure warp threads, shrink), make into pouch?

 Felt...bits. Need some stiffening, and then a new home.

Shalwar, for a friend.  Find out if she still wants them, otherwise find a new home.

 Linen coif, needs assembly.

 An old favorite t-shirt, sadly shrunken vertically.  Needs inset of awesome stripes at midriff and biceps.

 Handwoven cloth.  Moar pouches?

 Socks, slightly too short in the calf to stay up.  Need alteration.  Also, button attached.

 Old strappy sundress, to become a skirt.

 Handwoven cloth. WHAT DOES IT WANT TO BE?!?  Could be towels, could be bags. still don't know.

 Handwoven cloth.  See above.  Could be any number of things. What *should* it be?

 Holes in shoulders to be patched with nice black leather.

 fleece plushie. Needs assembly.

 Pattern test of leggings.  Needs elastic inserted into the waist to be wearable.

Wool hood, needs tail extension, buttons.  I have no interest in finishing this, it needs a new home.

Fighter pants, not the best patterning.  Can be fixed, are they still wanted?












Five hour projects (Or: this can easily get done in one day, but is too much for one sitting.)

This is a really soft, merino tank top that I really love...speckled with moth holes.  My first thought was to cover the holes (and secure the loose knitting) with a stitch and a sequin, but sequins aren't really my thing.  My second thought was to do visible darning, which...is coming out kind of weird.  So now I'm a little stuck: is it even worth finishing? It's so soft, though!

 Wool damask hat.  Not nearly as top-hattish in real life, just needs finishing.

Handwoven wrap: another moth casualty.  Darn and....wear?  Make into a skirt (as originally intended?) Darn and decide.

...or, given the whole postapocalyptic thing, maybe DON'T darn?!? Live dangerously!

 Wool hat blank, to be steamed over the hat form, to make an Elizabethan tall hat.  Just do the thing.  (Will then require trimming, I'm counting that as a separate project.)

 Grey sheet, to be made into a weighted blanket, like a year ago.  Oops.  Does the person still want it?

 An assortment of wool hose in various stages of completion. Worth finishing???

 Marvelous sweater in need of darning.  Maybe also in need of replacing previous darning, now that I have a better idea what I'm doing.  Damn moths.

 Embroidered slippers.  Will I wear them?  They may go very well with another unfinished project...

 Silk waist cincher.  I adore this silk.

Travel bobbin-lace box. I need to remove the hinges and move them to the other side, so that the two halves of the box lie flat when it's open.  The hinges are nailed in, with the ends of the nails bent over like a staple, which is making removal difficult.  I'm afraid I'm going to have to take the dremmel to it.  I've bent a piece of balsa to match the curve, to be a lid for the lower section.  The lace bolster will sit at the top of the curve in the upper section.









8 Hour projects (or, more than one day, but the end is in sight)

 Fox paws sock.  There's a mistake somewhere.  I've ripped out the same row several times, and I need to take the time to sit down and work with no distractions.

 Hand-sewn Elizabethan doublet.  I'm never going to wear this, I don't have the rest of the outfit it went with anymore.  Time to go.

Red linen gothic fitted dress, hand-stitched. While I was working on this, a felt-tip pen escaped and stained it in a few places.  I mostly got it out, but that stopped me working on it, and now this isn't the sort of thing I wear anymore.  Needs a new home.  

 Italian Ropa, needs black velvet bands sewn down (by hand), sleeves attached, edges bound with silk bias.

Rose shawl. About half done. Needs finishing.


















Epic projects (No end in sight!)

 A hat knit from special yarn for a friend.  I need to follow up (on a few finishing decisions) and get to work.

 Handwoven fabric. WHAT TO DO WITH IT?!? I DO NOT KNOW!!!

decisions are hard, yo.

 Handspun rainbow sweater.  I need to spin more red/orange/yellow before getting started.

 Celestarium shawl.  This one's cool: It's an accurate(-ish) star chart for the northern hemisphere!  Pain in the ass to knit, though, I'm not sure I'm going to get through it.

 purples spinning project!  --ongoing, I have a sweater in mind for it, but am in no hurry.

 T-Shirt quilts and jeans rag rug.  Mostly collecting materials at this point, though I think I do have enough for a "places I don't work anymore" quilt for my husband.

 Handwoven fabric.  This one's going to be hard. I love the weave, but don't love the process.  I need to let it go, re-thread to something more forgiving, so I can weave with joy again.

 Thrift store skirt: seemed interestingly postapocalyptish, so it's earmarked for modification, but I'm still waiting for inspiration.

 darning a burned hole in the sleeve of a cote.  The original owner didn't want it mended, thought it would be too obvious, so this was all about proving him wrong.  worth finishing?  ...I suspect not.

 Italian Ren segmented sleeves.  No dress to go with them.  This isn't so much an epic work in progress as...an accessory needing a home?  I'm not even sure.  It's taking up space in my house and in my mind, and that's what I need to work on.

 Silk chiffon 30s gown, in lavender and gray.  Disassembled for cleaning and to pull a pattern.  Needs reassembly.  And possibly a new home.

 silk appliques; fun shapes, fun colors, my technique had severe flaws and I'm not going to use them.  Free to a good home.

 Dye swatches from a major project, trying to tune in to the perfect color.  I had thoughts of using them all in a single project, but that's not realistically going to happen (inspiration hasn't struck) so I'm passing them on.  These have a new home already.

 Blackwork embroidered coifs: my first effort on the right, done with cotton on cotton, got spilled on and bled.  The second attempt, on the left, just got boring. 

Blackwork handkerchief.  Impossibly small.  I'm not finishing this.

 

 Felt Elizabethan flat cap.  The scale is way off, the workmanship not good.  The top might make good insoles?  Cut it up for scrap!

 Silk batt (mostly), dyed with the leftovers from the sampling above.  I want to blend these together and spin them.  I don't have a specific project in mind for the result.

 Silk bits from banner making!  I thought I'd cut these into ribbons, join them, dye them, and knit them like yarn.  I'm not going to.  Anybody want this?

 More silk bits from banner making!  Only these are banner-sized.  I need to dry clean to remove the old yellowed gutta, and make new banners.  Or something.

 disintigrating dress from the 30s.  Need to take a pattern, assess long-term storage needs.

 ???  I was going to make a cotehardie out of terrible knit fabric?  Garbage.

 Ooooh, this project.  I've had this for sooooo long.  I've long since fallen out of contact with the person it belongs to.  I'm going to have to do significant digging to find him, to find out if he still wants it.

 I think this shirt goes with the above doublet?

 Embroidery on the gown to go with the Florentine Ropa way above.

 Shibori sample.  Could be a scarf, if someone wanted a scarf.  I have no idea what to do with this.  Just keep it, I guess.

 I had an idea for tiny knitted critters made from mix-and-match parts.  These are sample parts.  The yarn wasn't the best choice, and doesn't show detail as well as I'd hoped.  So...critter parts.

...a sleeve?  A single linen sleeve.  Your guess is as good as mine.












Not pictured, but also epic:
The beekeeper's quilt, an ongoing modular knit I don't expect to actually finish ever
A quilt made from naturally dyed silk noil, with leafy quilt blocks.  I know I need to make a few more blocks, and I had some thoughts on layout, but not necessarily answers.